2023 DELMARVA Reports


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~ A Cut Above ~

Course Advanced Coastal Cruising; DELMARVA Circumnavigation
Date July 1-9, 2023
Vessel S/V NAVIGATOR, IP40
Students: Mark Hurley, Scott  Reynolds, Geoff Stothard, Dave Welc, 
Mate Captain Robin Bauer
Captain Captain David B Gifford

Late in the afternoon preceding day one the crew arrived, comprising myself, Captain David B. Gifford, First Mate (and MD School Instructor) Captain Robin Bauer, Dave Welch, Geoff Stothard, Mark Hurley and Scott (later to be know affectionately as Steve) Reynolds.  Meeting first at the MDSchool’s office, we made introductions.  I then presented an overview of the voyage around the Delmarva, after which we discussed the methods and tools to be used to plot the courses that we would follow to execute our voyage.  Geoff, Mark, Dave and Scott then began the extensive work necessary to establish and record our intended waypoints. We broke from this work and enjoyed dinner together at Baywolf restaurant in Rock Hall.

Day One: The crew met first at the MDSchool office at approximately 0845, and after a brief explanation of the day’s work ahead we went aboard Navigator.  We proceeded to discuss in greater detail the plan for our voyage, and the various passages along the way, as well as crew responsibilities in general. I made assignments for engineer, boson, navigator and emergency coordinator, and in accordance with each role so assigned Dave, Mark, Scott and Geoff performed the various inspections appointed to them for these various roles. After lunch we adjourned to the classroom where, using the charts for the voyage as well as the USCG Light List, Coast Pilot and current Local Notices to Mariners, the crew determined the waypoints, courses, and distances for the first legs of our journey. After completion of this work we adjourned for the evening.

Day Two: We met aboard Navigator at 0800 and I gave each student a role for the day, respectively as student skipper, navigator, boson and engineer. Mark, Scott, Geoff and Dave set to work making the various pre-departure checks and preparations assigned in the course workbook to those various roles.  After completing these we refueled the boat at Lankford Bay Marina and departed to the Chester River to begin our adventure.  There we ran a calibration of the speed and distance log in between Daybeacon “LC”, and Green “1”.  Completing that, we proceeded down the Chester River where the I called a surprise Man Overboard drill.  The quick-witted crew capably executed the return and recovery. Setting sail, we proceeded around Eastern Neck Island. As the wind fell we were forced to motor into Swan Creek, taking a mooring ball at Swan Creek Marina, a mere six or so miles from our home slip at Lankford Bay Marina as the goose flies. We had dinner aboard, ably prepared by a hot but hungry crew. Following dinner a strong thunderstorm moved through the area, bringing high winds and intense lightning for about 30 minutes. Undeterred, Geoff, Dave, Mark and Scott continued their work preparing the navigation plan for our Delmarva circumnavigation.

Day Three: We departed Swan Creek early, heading north through the Elk River to the C & D Canal. Light southerly winds precluded sailing, so we motored throughout this leg. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the scenery on a warm summer day, and arrived at Summit North Marina around 1600. Navigating into the marina took some care, as the entrance is narrow and shoaling and we arrived an hour or so before low tide.  After taking on fuel and emptying our holding tank, we tied up alongside a T-dock. After a welcome shower we dined at Grain H2O and enjoyed a night sleeping with air-conditioning.

Day Four: We arose early and departed Summit North Marina at approximately 0530, taking care to avoid leaving at low tide. We motored to the junction of the canal with the Delaware River and turned right down River past the Salem Nuclear Plant facility, and onward to the Delaware Bay. Light winds again left us motoring and with the rattle of the engine as our company we navigated largely buoy to buoy for this leg.  We were careful to avoid the various shallows and ledges along the Delaware River, passing the old Victorian structure of Ship John Shoal Light, and the more modest lights at Elbow of Cross Ledge and Miah Maull Shoal. As Delaware Bay opened out we continued to motor under the hot sun, with but little to no wind. Toward evening we passed around Cape Henlopen and into the Atlantic Ocean.  A short while later the rolling swell of the ocean became more pronounced and afflicted some of the crew with discomfort.  Dinner was foregone in favor of lighter fare.

As evening yielded to the dark of night we proceeded along the shore, approximately five to ten miles east of the Delaware coast, and later approximately twenty to twenty-five miles eastward off the coast of Maryland and Virginia. This being July 4th, we enjoyed the fireworks at various towns along the shore and had a wonderful position to view many different displays until the thicker darkness of late night ended those festivities. We continued the overnight voyage under a largely cloudless sky.  This afforded us a chance to observe a bright array of stars and constellations free from the light of settled land. For this portion of the voyage we implemented our watch schedule, dividing Dave, Mark Geoff, and Scott, into two watches, each comprising six hours.  Robin and I too alternated six-hour watches, though beginning at the middle of the students’ respective watches.  This allowed us to enjoy the company of each student watch (and enabled the students to benefit of our respective instruction!).

Day Five: Overnight we continued down the coast from Delaware to Maryland, and into Virginia. Daybreak brought another sunny, warm day, with a very light southerly breeze. We made a feeble attempt at motor sailing throughout the day, but little wind filled the sails to assist our progress. We kept our engine RPMs at 1800 to conserve fuel, though we nevertheless were able to maintain a minimum of five knots. During the day we were occasionally accompanied by dolphins, which broke the monotony of the pond-like sea.

Late in the evening we arrived at R “2N”, our waypoint near the North Channel entrance to Chesapeake Bay and began our passage through the channel to Cape Charles. Now in the dark, we used flashlights both in the cockpit and at the bow to locate the unlighted buoys that marked our way, and to locate any stray crab pots that might be encountered. We were assisted by a growing flood tide, and when we reached the highway bridges the flood was near its peak. We experienced strong currents – which I estimate to be about five knots - carrying us up to and under the bridges. Now in the Inner Middle Ground we made our way to Cape Charles buoy from buoy until we reached the white light at Old Plantation Flats and the challenging entrance to Cape Charles Harbor. We took some time outside the entrance identifying the range lights to be followed into the channel.  It was now after midnight, and the crew was tired from the long passage down the coast.  Our caution was also due in large part to several light anomalies and discrepancies between our paper chart, the chart plotter and various chart applications on our phones. Most significantly, the lower range light at the channel entry was dim to the point of being nearly invisible.  As we lined up these lights and prepared to enter the channel, another inbound sailboat offered to lead us through the passage, and we took the opportunity to follow that boat, although we were quite carefully following our own charts too. Once into the harbor, we tied up at a T-dock (with the assistance of a neighboring sailboat owner awakened by our arrival) for a much-needed few hours of sleep.

Day Six: As described previously, the day began in the early hours with our arrival at Cape Charles harbor. In light of the many sleepless hours experienced by the crew coming down the coast, I made a decision to layover an extra day in Cape Charles City. This gave us an opportunity not only to rest, but to do a little touring and shopping, and to enjoy several fine meals ashore. During the afternoon, Scott, Dave, Mark and Jeff took their ASA106 written examination.

Day Seven: After a memorable breakfast at Cape Charles Coffee Shop, and after refueling and pumping out the holding tank, we departed Cape Charles at approximately 1030, for our journey north up the Chesapeake Bay. We again experienced a sunny, hot and humid summer day. What little wind we had blew from the south at approximately the same speed as our five knot boat speed. This precluded sailing and resulted in a very hot and languid day. The watch schedule among all of us was inverted, with the students and instructors swapping watch times. Dave, Scott, Jeff and Mark rotated tasks during their watch, steering, navigating and acting as rover as their watch duties required. The sweltering day faded into a warm night, and soon we were navigating in earnest by the various lighted buoys plotted as our waypoints. Throughout the night we encountered various other vessels, including large ships, some of whom we hailed on the VHF to coordinate our passing. The crew handle these encounters very well, ensuring a safe passage.

Day Seven: Near dawn we passed Thomas Point Light on our way to Annapolis. The daylight again brought bright sunshine, heat, humidity, and virtually no wind. About 0900 we entered the mooring field in Annapolis Harbor, just outside of Ego Alley, where we took mooring ball #15 for well-earned rest and relief from our long overnight leg up the Bay. Shortly after mooring we hailed the pump-out boat that services boats in the harbor, and pumped our holding tank clean. Some of the crew then retired to Annapolis for a shower and a look around. Others remained on the boat for a rest while I graded the students’ examinations. After everyone returned to the boat in the late afternoon, we took the water taxi to the Annapolis Yacht Club, where we enjoyed (courtesy of Robin’s reciprocity arrangements through her yacht club) a delightful dinner before returning to the boat for a quiet night’s sleep on the mooring.

Day Eight: Promptly at 0830, after respecting Morning Colors observed at the Naval Academy at 0800, we unmoored and began our return to Lankford Bay Marina.  For the first time we had a favorable wind that enabled us to do some sailing, and so once outside of Annapolis Harbor we set the main and genoa and sailed close hauled to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Once through the enormous bridge spans, we continued to sail north toward the Chester River, though the wind now weakened and fully failed us after we rounded the Love Point and turned into the Chester River.  As we turned north past green “9”, however, we again were able to set our sails for a downwind leg to Lankford Bay Marina. There we refueled and returned Navigator to its home slip, ending our voyage. As Mark, Jeff, Dave and Scott did the final cleaning and assembled their personal effects, a strong thunderstorm moved in with high winds and some rain. Undeterred, everyone made their way down the dock, ending our adventure with an exchange of good wishes and hopes to see one another in the future. While it is always pleasant to return home from an extended voyage, I regret the disbursement of this fine crew who behaved magnificently throughout the voyage, and I hope to see them again.

Captain David Gifford
S/V NAVIGATOR, IP40
Rock Hall, MD


 

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